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Archive for July, 2010

The Last of French Asparagus Season

Monday, July 26th, 2010

Philippe’s cousins visited us from Normandy last weekend and brought a special gift, over 10 kilos or 25 pounds — of asparagus! What a perfect gift; this is one of Philippe’s favorite foods and he could eat it 365 days a year. Normandy reflects what I love about France , the importance of food in everyday life. I love the background stories as well. Pascal bought the asparagus from a man whose cousin makes the best fly fishing ‘mouches’ or ties in the region. He lives in Embreville, one of the two most reputed villages in France for their excellent asparagus. If you need fishing flies, we can put you in touch with the growers cousin.

Asparagus is a root vegetable and unlike many countries, is still grown in fields in France , not forced or grown in greenhouses.

The most popular variety is the fat white asparagus, a French favorite. I grew up with green asparagus and had trouble believing that all white asparagus has the same vitamins as green, but we checked and both the white and violet asparagus in France are equally rich in vitamins. The asparagus appeared late this year because of the cold winter. The season is short, late spring and early summer, and we’ve been eating it like mad for two months. Philippe spent hours peeling each stalk, separating and freezing in zip lock bags to save for the fall and winter.

The best asparagus from France - fat and white!

The best asparagus from France - fat and white!

Carefully peeling and preparing the asparagus

Carefully peeling and preparing the asparagus

Philippe’s cousin Marie Agnes is a busy working mother. When I asked for her recipe for hollandaise sauce she replied: “No way, I don’t spend my time making it from scratch any more. I buy the boxes of ready-made Hollandaise by Maggi at the supermarket!’

We love to eat with hollandaise sauce or a simple vinaigrette dressing made with a little French mustard.

If you can’t buy ready-made hollandaise, here is an easy blender hollandaise recipe:

Blender Hollandaise Sauce

Ingredients:

3 egg yolks
2 Tablespoons lemon juice
4 oz butter
Salt and pepper

Preparation

  • Put the egg yolks in the blender, add lemon juice, salt and pepper and blend
  • Melt the butter in a saucepan and stir.
  • Add the hot butter to the hollandaise sauce in the blender. Blend at full speed until the sauce thickens
  • Finished!  Serve immediately.

Here is the longer version of the traditional Hollandaise sauce, courtesy of Epicurious. My mother in law hadn’t heard of adding cayenne but thought it sounded interesting; that may be the American touch.

Ingredients

2 tablespoons white-wine vinegar
3 tablespoons cold water
1/4 teaspoon salt
White pepper to taste
3 large egg yolks
2 sticks (1 cup) unsalted butter, cut into tablespoon pieces and softened
2 tablespoons fresh lemon juice
3/4 teaspoon cayenne

Preparation

  • Boil vinegar, 2 tablespoons water, salt, and white pepper in a 1 1/2-quart heavy saucepan until reduced to about 2 tablespoons. Remove from heat and stir in remaining tablespoon
    water
  • Whisk in yolks, then cook over very low heat, whisking constantly, until thickened (be careful not to scramble yolks), about 1 minute. Whisk in butter 1 piece at a time, lifting pan
    occasionally to cool sauce and adding each piece before previous one is completely melted.
  • Remove from heat and whisk in lemon juice, cayenne, and salt to taste.

The Exquisite Jacquemart André Museum in Paris

Saturday, July 24th, 2010

If you lack the time (or energy) to fight the crowds at the Louvre or Musée d’Orsay, but still want to enjoy glorious paintings, sculptures and works of art, Paris has several smaller, more manageable art museums with world class exhibits.

The Jacquemart André Museum is an exquisite 19th century mansion, and former private residence of art connoisseurs Edouard André and Nélie Jacquemart.

Jacquemart André Museum in Paris

Jacquemart André Museum in Paris

Edouard was the son of a prominent banking family, and devoted his sizable fortune to amassing an extraordinary private collection of French, Italian and Dutch masterpieces. Edouard married prominent painter Nelié Jacquemart in 1881, and together they traveled throughout Europe each year to acquire rare treasures for their collection. Under the guidance of the most prominent museum curators of the time, the couple built a world class collection of paintings, tapestries, sculpture and frescos. Their philosophy was that great art was meant to be shared, and upon Edouard’s death, Nelié completed the collection and bequeathed it, along with the mansion, to the Institut de France, to be converted to a museum. The mansion opened to the public in 1913.

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3-jacquemart-andre-museum-paris

Highlights of the permanent collection include:
Dutch 17th century masters: Rembrandt, Van Dyck, Ruysdael
French 18th century: Fragonard, Boucher, Vigée-Lebrun, Nattier
English masters: Reynolds, Hoppner, Lawrence
Italian Renaissance 15th century sculptures & paintings: Bellini, Botticelli, Mantegna, Uccello

Temporary exhibits change with the season. In 2010, from 12 March until 1 August, you can experience Spanish masters from El Greco to Dali.

One of the highlights of your visits should be a stop in the Jacquemart André Tea Room, where you can enjoy lunch or coffee and pastries surrounded by beautiful Belgian tapestries and a fresco by Tiepolo. In the summer months, the Tea Room extends service to the adjacent courtyard. Indoors or out, you’ll be in one of the most beautiful tea rooms in Paris.

Stunning tea room in the Jacquemart André Museum

Enjoy coffee or lunch in the beautiful tea room

The Museum is located in the heart of Paris’ 8th arrondissement, at 158 Boulevard Haussmann, north of the Champs Elysees and west of the Galerie Lafayette shopping district. It is open every day, 365 days a year, from 10:00 am – 6:00 pm. Entrance is included in the Paris Museum Pass, or tickets are available on site. Free audio guide is included with admission. Discounts available for families, and children receive a free activity book, challenging them to solve riddles by searching for hidden clues throughout the mansion.

Check the website for temporary exhibits, maps, and practical information:  www.musee-jacquemart-andre.com/en/jacquemart/

RER: Charles de Gaulle – Etoile
Metro: Miromesnil or Saint Philippe du Roule
Bus: 22, 28, 43, 52, 54, 80, 83, 84, 93

Combine your museum visit with a shopping excursion to Paris designer stores located near the Jacquemart Andre, and you’ll have a fabulous day!

Tips to Help You Navigate Paris Supermarkets

Thursday, July 22nd, 2010

Back at home, grocery shopping is usually considered mundane….a weekly chore. But in Paris, ahhh….there’s just something so exquisitely exotic about walking down the aisles of your local grocery store, seeing items that are vaguely familiar, but all the labels are in a foreign language!

Franprix Supermarket in Paris

Franprix Supermarket in Paris

G20 Supermarket in Paris

G20 Supermarket in Paris

Don’t worry, even if you speak no French at all, it’s fairly easy to manage. The following tips will help you navigate like a true Parisian.

First, the shopping cart. In some outlying areas, you’ll find the shopping carts stacked up outside, but in Paris, they are usually just inside the doorway. You’ll find them all chained together, and you need a 1 Euro coin to unlock your cart.

paris-supermarket-trolley

When you are finished shopping, return your cart and slide the key back in to the cart in front of you and the Euro coin pops back out again…just a rental.

True Parisians shop with their own rolling market basket, to transport all their daily purchases easily, without lugging everything around by hand. Remember, they have several stops to make, so carrying multiple bundles around can be unwieldy. Lucky for you, Paris Perfect stocks a rolling market basket in many of their apartments.

When you arrive at the grocery, it’s usually customary to leave your market basket at the front of the store (look for the variety of wheeled baskets lined up in front) and use the store’s shopping carts to travel up and down the aisles.Now, produce can be a bit tricky. Some grocery stores weigh your produce at the check out stand. But many require you to weigh them yourself in the produce department. Watch what the other shoppers are doing and take your cue from them. Scales in the produce department are easy to use. Just bag your item in plastic and place it on the scale. There are little pictures of each fruit/vegetable item on the scale, so you just locate the appropriate photo, push the button, and voila, the machine calculates the weight and spits out the label for you to affix to the plastic bag.

Don’t be surprised to find larger grocery stores in Paris on 2 levels, with large elevators or escalators to accommodate the shopping carts.

Yogurt – the French love their yogurt, and there must be 100 different kinds

Hundreds of yoghurts to choose from

Hundreds of yoghurts to choose from

And of course, French cheese is legendary. Pick up a few basic cheeses if you like, but save your main cheese shopping for the neighborhood fromagerie.

Sliced luncheon meat is always available. You’ll find dinde (turkey), poulet (chicken) and jambon (ham). And you’ll see selections for meats smoked (fumer) or roasted (roti).

Salad dressing is interesting. In France, it’s customary for the chef to prepare a special dressing or vinaigrette for each salad, to bring out the special flavors of the greens. So in a French supermarket, you do not have a large selection of pre-made dressings. Your choices are: yellow or white. That’s about it!

On the other hand, sauces, condiments, mayonnaise, and mustards you will find in abundance. One of our favorite lines is Benedicta sauces, which come in about 8 delicious varieties (the Benedicta Sauce au Poivre is missing from this shelf below, as I bought every jar to take home with me to the States). You’ll also see mayonnaise in a tube, like toothpaste. Olives, pickles and cornichons come in many varieties as well.

The salad dressing and sauce aisle

The salad dressing and sauce aisle

Bonne Maman shortbread cookies filled with raspberry or strawberry jam are scrumptious with a cup of hot tea when you need a sugar high to perk you up after a long day sightseeing.

Here’s another difference in French supermarkets. Milk is rarely refrigerated. It is sterilized and perfectly safe, so don’t be afraid (remember Louis Pasteur, as in pasteurized)! Milk comes in white plastic bottles or boxes – usually 1 liter, and shrink wrapped 6 bottles to a pack. But most groceries allow you to break the plastic and purchase just 1 or 2 bottles at a time.

If you’re looking for organic options, look for “Biologique”.

Frozen foods – lots of interesting choices here.

Huge range of frozen foods

Huge range of frozen foods

Soda and soft drinks? Of course – Coca Light is Diet Coke.

You’ll also find a very decent wine selection – you’re in France, of course!

Supermarkets also sell wine

Supermarkets also sell wine

Lot of bottled water too – Volvic is a favorite, along with Evian and Perrier, if you want avec gaseus (carbonation)

When it’s time for checkout, take your place in line, and when it’s your turn, be sure to greet the clerk with a polite “Bonjour”. Cashiers don’t smile…..don’t take it personally. It’s against the rules. It’s just not done. Pay in Euros or with Mastercard, Visa, and some supermarkets accept American Express. Good to verify in advance.

Once you check out, you bag your own groceries in plastic, load them into your rolling market basket, and you’re on your way.

Bring your shopping cart

Don't forget your shopping cart!

Yummy French specialty products you can’t find abroad make great small souvenirs to bring home for gifts (remember the Benedicta sauces). And French chocolate maker 1848 is a great line. Our favorite is the milk chocolate with whole hazelnuts and praline. Unbelievably delicious!

French chocolate

French chocolate

The packaging has changed to a gold box (instead of black, as shown in the picture), but the chocolate is still the same….incredible! And only about 2.50 Euros each, they make a great, and very packable, souvenir for friends, neighbors, co-workers, etc.

Summer Sales in Paris!

Wednesday, July 21st, 2010

Got up early last week and took a nice long walk through my favorite streets in the 6th and 7th on the Left Bank . One thing was obvious, everything is on sale!

Thought you’d enjoy these pictures… Sales end in early August so if you’re planning a trip, get over here soon.

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collages2

Some stores are already offering the second round of price cuts, up to 70% off

Other stores had signs that announced ‘prix ronds’. I wasn’t sure what it meant so asked friends; they said it means that everything is thrown into bins and cut to a single price ‘Everything in this bin for € 5!’ One store is ‘changing concept’ and I look forward to their new look this fall. Hand-lettered signs, professional signs, mega discounts, double discounts…shoes, handbags, furniture, accessories, underwear, swimsuits, coats, jackets …everything in Paris seems to be ON SALE!

Paris Supermarkets – Part 1!

Monday, July 19th, 2010

A highlight of staying in a Paris apartment is the chance to live like a local and engage in the little errands of everyday life in your neighborhood.  Stop in at the local pharmacy, wait with your neighbors at the bus stop, watch school children scurrying off to school with their backpacks slung over their shoulders.

Shopping the local markets and grocery stores is a treat not to be missed. France is a delight for foodies, and there are many grocery stores in central Paris . Local supermarkets (supermarche in French) are G20 on the rue St. Dominique near the Eiffel Tower .

There is a very nice and larger Franprix on Ave de la Bourdonnais. We love to roam the isles to view the selections of ‘slightly different’ foods, from cereals to cookies and biscuits. Both G20 and Franprix deliver.

A smaller version Monoprix has just opened next to the Ecole Militaire metro near rue Cler, called Monop. Open late and on Sundays, good price and handy!

On rue Cler itself you’ll find two small groceries: a Leader which is a discount type supermarket and a Fran Prix which is more upscale.

Also, we love visiting the Monoprix chain, which is like the French version of Target. The location of the Monoprix nearest the 7th arrondissement: rue de Grenelle just next to the Motte Piquet Metro. Walk to Ecole Militaire (the beautiful old building at the other end of the Champs de Mars gardens; it literally faces the Eiffel Tower) and turn right in front of it. Four blocks later and you’ll see the big Monoprix sign on the corner.

The other big Monoprix on the Left Bank is: 35-37 Rue du Bac , 75007 PARIS phone 01 42 86 44 30 (By the way, did you know the French invented the hypermart concept?)

To be truly French, you must visit Picard’s gourmet frozen food store for great selection of frozen items at affordable prices. They are located all over central Paris , but this address is handy to visitors staying in the 7th arrondissement: Picards, 195 RUE DE GRENELLE 75007 PARISTEL : 01 47 05 88 84.

I Love Picard’s Desserts!

Picard's Frozen Dessert

Picard's Frozen Dessert

It’s very common for the French to shop daily for their fresh baguettes, produce, cheeses, etc., for several reasons. Parisian kitchens are small and storage space is at a premium, so buying several weeks of groceries at a time is just not practical. Plus, the French insist on the freshest, best quality goods they can find. Daily shopping is part of the French culture, with loyal patrons visiting their favorite shopkeepers, socializing and catching up on the latest news.

Fireworks in Paris! Bastille Day Celebrations

Friday, July 16th, 2010

bastille-day-fireworks-on-the-champs-de-mars Bastille Day Fireworks in Paris

If you missed the Bastille Day celebrations on the Champs de Mars no Wednesday, you can see the whole event here: Eiffel Tower Fireworks on Bastille Day

Months of planning goes into the show and they are undoubtedly some of the most spectacular firework displays you’ll ever see — and just when you think it can’t get better…it does. This year was dedicated to France’s former colonies in Africa and all African nations. The music was excellent, from all African countries, lots of beat in time with the fireworks. You’ll enjoy watching!

Many apartments at Parisperfect offer close-up views of the Eiffel Tower fireworks. It’s hard to decide which one is the best, whether the Champagne Paris apartment, the Cognac rental, the Bergerac or St. Emilion vacation rental.

A family who rented the St. Emilion apartment a few years ago sent us this picture of their two sons enjoying Bastille day in Paris and the fireworks. I’m sure they never forgot it.

Watching the Bastille Day Fireworks from the St. Emilion Apartment

Watching the Bastille Day Fireworks from the St. Emilion Apartment