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Archive for October, 2010

The Merlot Apartment in Paris: Before, After & After Again!

Thursday, October 21st, 2010

Our Merlot apartment in Paris was redecorated recently and we just took new pictures! We thought you’d be interested to see the evolution in styles and colors over the years. Here are the changes…

Before Purchase:  Original owner’s first  Paris apartment.

The first pictures were taken the day we viewed it.  It was owned by a young French lawyer who was being transferred to New York, her dream! It was clean and neat, but lacking charm; furniture was strangely over-sized; pictures on the walls were tiny.  Our initial impression was ho hum … until we stepped t onto the balcony and saw the view!! Price negotiations ensued and the offer was confirmed and accepted in writing just minutes before a full asking price offer came in. Sold! Three months later the works began…

The style of the apartment reminded me of own first apartment out of college, many years ago.  My first real job and apartment, using bits and pieces of cheap furniture, lots of bright paint to make it look beautiful.  The Merlot owner had good quality upholstery, but over-sized and dark. She also had the advantage of cheap furniture from Ikea seen in dining table, mattresses, lamps and more.

The French have an expression  to ‘mettre en valeur’ or making it show its worth. This was our challenge!

First Viewing of the Merlot Apartment

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When we viewed the apartment

Before Purchase:  Living room

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First viewing; large furniture in red/burgundy. Very small pictures

Small prints on the wall didn’t do justice to the room and the furniture felt over-sized.

After First Remodel:  Merlot living room

We reinstated a fireplace on the left wall where the maroon sofa was. Found an antique marble fireplace in the right proportion at the Puces Flea Market in Paris and hung a simple gold leaf antique mirror above it. Notice how the large pictures on the walls make the room seem larger….

First Remodel of the Merlot Apartment Rental

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First remodel, fireplace as a focal point

After Second Remodel:  Merlot living room today

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Second remodel this fall! Same pale woods, beautiful gray armchairs, red checks.

More homogenous look with antique white furniture as the background. Lighter and larger feel.

After First Remodel Towards Balcony:  Louis XV Armchairs in Merlot apartment

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First remodel towards the French doors and balcony. Marble table on right, French fauteuils

It’s hard to find comfortable armchairs that fit the smaller sizes of French apartments. We continued to look for something that was completely upholstered, finally finding them in London.

After Second Remodel:  The whole project began when we found a pair of comfortable gray flannel armchairs!

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Second remodel; comfy armchairs in gray flannel check; red checked curtains to contrast

We searched for comfortable armchairs for years – not easy in France where your choices are Louis XXX, super modern or oversized. We found this beautiful pair at Andrew Martin in London. Elegant and comfortable, upholstered in dark grey flannel. We used the colors as the basis for the new look. Antique white wood, red check curtains and accents to blend the look.

Napoleon II Library Table on the right: Philippe found a beautiful library table near his parent’s home in Normandy. You can see it on the left with beautiful gray marble top. A large flat screen TV sits on top, comfort and convenience.

After Second Remodel:  View towards the sofa

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Second remodel; white empire style sofa, beige and gray striped sofa cover, tall antique white lamps, provencal style coffee table

We found a canvas painting from an old stage set and hung it behind the sofas.. The soft colors blend with the beiges/grays and reds of the living. The lamps are modern reproductions of torches and were originally in brown oak. We applied white wax from Luberon (I’m becoming their biggest salesperson!) to give them a similar look to the other wood.

The paintings on the right are copies of wine labels.

After Second Remodel:  A warm welcome home in the evening

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Evening in Paris; a warm and welcoming home

Before Purchase:  French doors and balcony

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Before purchase; wood rocker and table; thin curtains. Doesn't show off fine features.

After First Remodel:  View of French doors and dining table

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First remodel: we painted the dining wall a pale violet, used a white fresco behind. Modern table, small chandelier

After Second Remodel:  Dining area of our Merlot rental today

White antique style dining table expands to seat 8. Pretty red/cream checked curtains. Over-sized prints and a large chandelier. The dresser is as beautiful as ever.

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Second remodel; white antique style oak dining table; upholstered armchairs. Giant knife, fork, spoon lithographs

Modern beechwood table was replaced with a limed oak one and matching chairs.

The antique dresser from Normandy is a beautiful piece that Philippe found at an auction house in Normandy Funny story when we discovered after we bought it that it belonged to a very good friend of his parents who was downsizing and sold it with great reluctance!

Dining En Familie in Paris

Comfortable chairs and stunning front seat views of Paris outside.

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Second remodel: warm dinners in Paris with Eiffel Views from balcony

Before Purchase:  Bathroom

There was only one bathroom tiled in white with bathtub and the basic French flex telephone shower. The toilet was next to the kitchen. We moved walls, widened toilet and converted it to a second bathroom with step in shower, toilet and sink.

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When purchased; very basic Paris bathroom

The bathroom: The neighbor on the opposite side of the bathroom wall  was actually in the adjacent building, but the insulation was so thin that she could hear the owner getting ready ready for work every morning. She came over during the works and asked if we could do something about it.  As she said with an embarassed blush: “J’entends tout…tout!” We insulated the walls and it worked beautifully; she has never complained about noises emanating from the bathroom since.

First bathroom totally transformed!

We found antique marble bowls in London, had them drilled out and modified for sinks. Found a copy of an antique freize of a mythical fish for the far wall and used used pale limestone tiles for the walls and front of bathtub. Built a sink counter of Pierre de Calisa limestone with glass shelf underneath.

The bathtub has a fixed shower head on the far left (not shown) and a flexi head as well. We moved the walls and made room for a cupboard where we installed the washer and separate dryer. What a change! The bathroom has stood the test of time.

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Remodelled Paris bathroom; limestone tiles and countertop. Marble bowls converted to sinks

After Second Remodel:  Bathroom 2

We transformed the original WC into a shower room by moving the walls. Tiled it simply with pale green mosaic tiles and another marble bowl, this one found in Italy. Just the right size for this room.

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Remodel: converted toilet to shower room by moving wall into kitchen

Before Purchase:  Second Bedroom

We all remember our days of mattresses on the floor! A queen-sized mattress was a little wide for this room….

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When purchased; bedroom two

The 2nd bedroom today

Single beds on opposite walls created a charming second bedroom. We bought an armoire which wasn’t installed when we took the picture; it sits on the right wall next to the bed.

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Second remodel; added armoire, french antique nightstands

Small improvements in the second bedroom include a white French armoire and pretty antique nightstand. Petit Poule Francais: brass lamp in second bedroom. A chicken carrying a workbasket…

Before Purchase:  Master Bedroom

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When purchased: master bedroom in dark blues. The balcony and view were fabulous!

First Remodel:  Master Bedroom

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First remodel; hand-painted Venetian headboard, dark silk drapes

Master Bedroom today

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Second remodel; softer, romantic bedroom with antique style headboard, pelmet and drapes

We softened the colors of the master bedroom, replacing the Venetian style headboard with an antiqued white one. I antiqued it myself early one morning with white wax. For more information on how to antique furniture, click here.

Pretty cream curtains and an antique pelmet from Italy complete the new softer look for this romantic bedroom. We also installed air conditioning throughout, a rare plus in Paris.

Before Purchase:  View from hallway into the kitchen

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When purchased: apartment hallway towards old fashioned kitchen

A pretty drab sight. This dark hallway needed to show off the original parquet floors and we think uplights and a large mirror were needed.

After Remodel:  View of hallway towards kitchen

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Better lighting, large elegant urns under the leather console table, pretty lamps.

Before Purchase:  Kitchen

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Before kitchen wish washer

 

No counter-space or storage in the old kitchen.

After First & Second Remodel:  Kitchen has stood the test of time!

The remodeled Kitchen has stood the test of time: Beautiful and practical. We moved the washer to the bathroom and installed a separate dryer. In its place is a full sized refrigerator/freezer combination.  Our favorite granite is this one, with beautiful swirly veins in pink and gray.

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Remodel: granite countertops in pink and gray and beechwood cabinets

The view is eternal

After many years of trial and error ourselves, we appreciate and admired the talent of interior designers. But the main credit for Merlot was already done for us: Gustave Eiffel designed one of the most amazing architectural wonders in Paris that you can gaze at from the french doors and balcony.  Haussman carved out the beautiful tree-lined Boulevard below.

Morning views from Merlot’s balcony

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The view from the balcony was simply amazing!

After Sunset in Paris: Night Views from the Balcony

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Nightfall from the balcony is unforgettable!

We hope you get a chance to stay here and enjoy!

Madelyn

p.s. on the fireplace:  Actually there was an antique style white porcelain stove on the left in the living room which served for heating and as a stove in ancient times. Philippe didn’t think it was worth anything so sold it for $50 to a junkman. I have never forgiven him!

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Original porcelain fireplace

Antique White Porcelain Stove: Coal filled the lowest compartment and the brass doors in the middle were for baking. Philippe said it reminded him of his early days working in pathology and sold it without realizing  it was a wonderful piece of history.

We hope you enjoyed our decorating efforts!

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Paris Perfect Tips for Families Going to Paris

Thursday, October 14th, 2010

Paris is an exciting city to discover as a family, and offers a fun choice of kid-friendly sights. Here are some tips for families traveling to Paris that we’ve learned from traveling in Paris with our own children — and from our family, friends and guests. We hope these suggestions help your family experience a vacation of a lifetime in Paris!

  • Stay in a Paris Apartment Rental so you enjoy the benefits of a kitchen and living room. You’ll save money over a Paris hotel because you won’t have to eat out for every meal. Your family will enjoy the space and opportunity to relax after a day of sightseeing, enjoy free phone calls to anywhere in the world and free internet as an added bonus.
  • Look for a Paris apartment near public gardens. There are only a few green spaces in Paris, and if you have children, it’s well worth selecting a Paris apartment nearby. They’re great for children to run around and decompress and for families to sit outdoors and enjoy a picnic after serious sightseeing. Remember that even French parks and playgrounds are a fun cultural experience. Relax on a park bench and observe generations of Parisian families enjoying themselves.
  • The best parks are the Champs de Mars and Eiffel Tower in the 7th arrondissement and the Luxembourg Gardens in the 6th arrondissement. For example, this Paris apartment rental accommodates a family of six and is located just across the street from the Champs de Mars Park. Your kids will love the balcony and spectacular views of the Eiffel Tower at night! Our St. Julien apartment in Paris accommodates a family of five and is popular with families since it is literally across the street from the Champs de Mars gardens.
  • Plan one major outing per day, then have a nice lunch or return home to eat and do something more relaxed in the afternoon. Suggestions are a boat ride, playing in the park or food shopping. Growing up in Europe, my mother was so excited that she often drug us through multiple museums and cathedrals a day – or so it felt. We hated every minute! While we may have never wanted to read the entire explanation of how the obelisks were transported by Napoleon to Place de la Concorde (but we did), we were always up for pastry sampling afterwards.Carousel in the Champ de Mars
  • Bring your children along to do the food shopping. It’s one of the favorite activities they’ll remember! They’ll love studying the words on the cereal boxes, trying to pronounce them and noticing how different the packaging and selection is in France. Our children think that the cookie shelves offer more selection and better taste in France than anywhere else in the world.
  • Make sure everyone in the family has a note with the address and phone number of where you’re staying! One family who stayed in the spacious Chateauneuf Paris apartment visited Notre-Dame in the morning by taking the 87 bus. To return home they took two taxis since the youngest children were tired. The children ended up in one taxi and the parents in another. Naturally, the taxis became separated and children lost—without mobile phones, no phone number for them to call and no address. The parents called us in a panic and we began to call the police, taxi companies, the American Embassy and instituted a neighborhood search. After several hours, the resourceful children appeared in front of the building, tired but safe. The taxi had left them near Notre-Dame when they couldn’t tell him where they were going. The kids saw the bus stop nearby and slowly followed the bus stops all the way home. While these children were resourceful, it’s better to be prepared!
  • Teach your children about the important French custom of greeting people you meet. When someone says “Bonjour” to them to look them in the eye and say “Bonjour Monsieur” or “Madame” in return – whether a shopkeeper or an acquaintance. If they are acquaintances or family, younger children kiss adults on each cheek and say ‘Bonjour’. Adolescents and older shake the hand of the other person, whether another adolescent or an adult! My American nieces and nephews had trouble adopting these customs, until we explained that it is obligatory for most children in France.
  • Bring Paris to life for your children before leaving home through the wonderful stories of Madeline by Ludwig Bemelmans. The neighbourhood where Madeleine lived is by the Eiffel Tower.  When they were younger, our children thought that the Hermitage Paris vacation rental was her boarding school! Older children will enjoy reading The Hunchback of Notre-Dame by Victor Hugo and The Three Musketeers by Alexandre Dumas, or watching the movie versions
  • Should you have an emergency while in Paris here are some useful emergency numbers:
    Emergency Services (Fire, Police) Dial: 112
    SOS Medecins Dial: 3624
    (Doctors will come to your home for a reasonable fee. Most speak good English and are very helpful.)
    American Hospital in Paris: 01 46 41 25 19

We wish you a wonderful family stay in Paris!

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Secret Shoppers: Finding the Best Pâtisserie’s in Paris !

Wednesday, October 6th, 2010
Secret Tastings for the Best Flan Tarte in Paris!

Secret Tastings for the Best Flan Tarte in Paris!

Mission to Find the Best and Worst Flan Pastries in Paris

Thank you to Clotilde at Zucchini and Chocolate who recommended a blog I’ll read often. Her friend Louise writes Raids-Pâtisseries and her goal is to ‘raid’ pastry shops and perform secret taste tests on a specific kind of pastry, awarding five stars to the best and revealing the worst in a dramatically honest way.  Completely after my own heart and Vive la France and this great nation of food police!

What we love about their mission is so quintessentially French: maintaining the highest standards for pastry-making in the world. Written in French, it’s easy to follow and you’ll enjoy the subtle touches of serious ‘foodiness’.  Recently, Louise and loyal friend Anne-Valérie tasted 15 flan tartes in Paris and came out with some astonishing results.

I enjoy flan as a ‘comfort pastry’, ideal on cold winter days while taking long walks along windy Parisian streets. My daughter Alexia always chose flans for dessert after her visit to our French orthodontist because they’re easy on sore teeth!

I always considered flans somewhat bland, but was amazed to learn good flan-making is indeed an art. Louise ranked from 5 stars down to only 1. (5 étoiles = parfait, 1 étoile = immangeable). You’ll smile at the dramatic but serious comments such as “A flan that was killed by its Pastry’

And the winner is…… Frédéric Lalos at Le Quartier du Pain!

First prize went to Frédéric Lalos at Le Quartier du Pain

First prize went to Frédéric Lalos at Le Quartier du Pain

First prize went to Frédéric Lalos at Le Quartier du Pain with boutiques in the 14th, 15th and the 17th arrondissements.  Love their description of the winning flan: ‘Le Quartier du Pain brushes against the sublime combining the scent of vanilla and the fresh taste of egg. The pâte feuilletée est nicely crispy and the topping is melt-in-your-mouth. A gift… ‘

Second Prize was awarded to……Arnaud Delmontel

Arnaud Delmontel won second prize; looks slightly overcooked to me

Arnaud Delmontel won second prize; looks slightly overcooked to me

Arnaud Delmontel: (5 stars) located on rue des Martyrs in the 9th arrondissement.  ‘A beautiful flan, creamy and crusty at the same time…’

Lenotre only won 3 stars for their flan tarte

Lenotre's 3 star flan tarte

Lenotre's 3 star flan tarte

Now for the Rest….

Diplomatic but brutally honest and detailed, points were awarded or deducted for areas I didn’t even realize existed: the flakiness of the pastry, color, taste of vanilla, subtlety of the taste of egg yolk and flan texture.  Hope you enjoy the comments below.

L’Ecureuil (1 star) located in the 7th arrondissement

L'Ecureuil flan

L'Ecureuil flan

On the subject of the last flan, words escape us. We are astonished that a Pâtisserie as prestigious as this one, with such a warm welcome et run by the former master pastry hef of Potel could make such an inedible flan! Was it an accident and I bought it on the wrong day? In short, the pastry shell was completely soggy, the flan filling tasted burnt and literally the topping was like a piece of plastic. ‘Nous tombons de haut.’ ‘We fall from high, meaning we are devastated.’

L’Autre Boulange (4 stars) located in the 11th arrondissement

L'Autre Boulange flan

L'Autre Boulange flan

A good flan, the texture is perfect (creamy and a little sticky) but the pastry is too soft. The taste of egg yolk too strong.

Poilâne: (2 stars) tasted in the 15th arrondissement but located throughout Paris

Famous for their Bread Making, Poilâne’s Flan Won Only 2 Stars…

Famous for their Bread Making, Poilâne’s Flan Won Only 2 Stars…

A mat aspect rather than shiny. The pastry is well cooked and tasty. On the other hand, the filling is a little gelatinous, a little stiff and dry.

Eric Kayser (2 stars) located throughout Paris

Love the Dramatic Verdict of Kayser's Flan... killed by its pastry

Love the Dramatic Verdict of Kayser's Flan... killed by its pastry

A flan that was killed by its pastry… A nice square form, little black grains of powdered vanilla, but a too-soft crust, topping way too sweet and a somewhat chemical taste (did they use powdered eggs?). Creamy texture though…

Cohier (2 stars) located in the 8th arrondissement on Faubourg St . Honore

Cohier's flan was nice to look at but not to eat

Cohier's flan was nice to look at but not to eat

“A flan to look at but not eat… very pretty to look at, but gelatinous and little flavor”

Pierre Hermé (4 stars) 15th arrondissement and throughout Paris

My favorite macaron-maker only won four stars for his flan

My favorite macaron-maker only won four stars for his flan

” This self proclaimed ‘the flan-lovers’ flan’, this tarte almost kept its promise. Shiny and beautifully cooked, exceptional smoothness with a good taste of vanilla and eggwhites. On the other hand, it’s too sweet.”

Fleur d’Oranger (3 stars) located in the 17th arrondissement

Fleur d'Oranger flan

Fleur d'Oranger flan

A cake that was slightly over cooked, that should have been torn apart before eating it. The pastry is not very tasty (where is the butter ?) and once the the burnt taste is removed, it’s easy to eat, although too much taste of egg (abuse of egg powder ?).

We’d love to hear from you; what is your favorite French pastry?

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Winner of Our Paris Perfect Photo Competition

Monday, October 4th, 2010

Last month we announced a photo contest of your favorite pictures of Paris and the winner receives a basket of gourmet goodies. Thank you for your submissions of gorgeous Paris photos and paintings! The votes are in and here is the winning photograph and other top four selections.

AND THE WINNER IS

It was an impossible choice but the winner by a small margin is Suzette Reed and her Riverbank of the Seine in Fall. People loved the shots of the trees and colors — a timeless moment  of Parisian life, strolling under trees while the season in Paris turns to Autumn.  Congratulations Suzette and we’ll be in touch to send your gift basket!


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The wide bank of the Seine river taken from the right bank, blue sky and beautiful clouds….

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Stephanie Anderson caught Notre Dame on a beautiful sunny morning in spring, with the cherry blossoms in bloom.

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Thank you Renee Tobin for a magnificent view along the Seine at sunset, with the dome of the Hotel de la Monnaie and Eiffel Tower in the distance!

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Erin Hill submitted a charming water color of Notre Dame on the Seine . Click on Erin’s drawings and sketches of Paris, of the French countryside and Milo the Cat in Paris to order prints or greeting cards.

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Many thanks for all of your submissions and we’ll follow up with another photo contest soon!

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