Whether you’re walking hand in hand along the Seine, exploring the intimate cobbled streets of Montmartre or warming up next to your loved one in a cozy café with a vin chaud, Paris is a city of romance and love. A stay in one of our romantic Paris Perfect apartments is sure to bring you lasting memories this Valentine’s Day!

We still have a few romantic apartments still open for Valentine’s week, and we are happy to share some exciting incentives to book your Romantic Getaway in Paris! As part of our Valentine’s Day Package, we’re offering you and your loved one the chance to stay in one of our romantic one-bedroom Paris Perfect apartments with extraordinary Eiffel Tower views! Our special rates for Valentine’s week start at only €195/ night* (regular price €300/ night) and are based on a minimum stay of one week.

To make your stay in Paris extra special, our Valentine’s Day Package also includes:

• A bottle of chilled Champagne awaiting you on arrival
• Welcome basket with assorted goodies
• A box of French macarons by award-winning chocolatier Gregory Renard
• Two complementary tickets for a romantic boat cruise down the river Seine
• Special discounted price of €50 each for a one hour couple’s massage in your Paris apartment.

As with all of our Special Occasions packages, we are also happy to recommend additional services for private chefs, private shoppers, private tours, personalized event planning and beauty salon treatments. Just let us know and we can help you design your perfect Valentine’s Day in Paris!

Sweet Treats for Your Loved One

If you’re in Paris for Valentine’s week or any special occasion, we have discovered a unique way to say “I Love You!” Master chocolatier, Gregory Renard, located on the charming rue St. Dominique in the 7th arrondissement, has offered to personalize your “Je t’aime” message on one of his superb bars of chocolate. For a delightful French treat, consider one of Gregory’s special 15 inch macarons in the flavor of your choice featuring your special message, gift-wrapped and ready for you to deliver personally the next day. This is one Valentine’s Day treat you and your loved one will not soon forget!

The Most Romantic Apartments in Paris

Many of our apartments are located in the 7th arrondissment just a pleasant stroll from the Eiffel Tower. Imagine watching the nightly light show on La Grande Dame while enjoying a romantic dinner in the comfort of your Paris Perfect apartment—pure magic! Our apartments are located in the heart of Paris, with fine restaurants and charming cafés just around the corner. Head out for an evening on the town and enjoy dinner, a cabaret show or the theater, or enjoy our complementary boat cruise down the Seine. Romance is in the air as the beautiful sites of Paris glide by!

Paris Perfect’s luxury Paris vacation rentals offer our guests privacy and comfort in gorgeous apartments. Our handpicked apartments are known for their enviable locations, marvelous views and fine décor. Many of our apartments have spectacular Eiffel Tower views and all are conveniently located near Paris landmarks, top designer boutiques, the Seine River and the best cafes, restaurants and attractions Paris has to offer.

Valentine’s Day in the City of Lights

See our Valentine’s Day Package for more details and information on planning an unforgettable Valentine’s Day with Paris Perfect. The romance of Paris awaits you!

* The sale offers are for a limited time only and are subject to availability. Quoted prices for January 3 – March 12, 2010. Prices in US Dollars: $289/night or $2,203/week (regular price of $435/night). Contact parisperfect.com for sale prices on all apartments for all seasons.

Biggest Designer Discount Store in Paris

The Biggest Luxury Consignment Store in Paris

Worn that € 1,000 pair of shoes from Chanel once for that special party?  Clearning out your original Vuitton luggage? Don’t wear your 52nd Hermes scarf?  The lucky recipient of 2 Kelly handbags for your birthday? For luxury fashion items in impeccable condition,  this is the granddaddy of all consignment stores.

Paris is famous for the big sales that begin just after Christmas and that’s a perfect reason to visit. But did you know about the fabulous year-round treasure troves at Paris’ largest luxury consignment stores?

Reciproque is the largest luxury consignment store in Paris, located in the upscale 16^th arrondissement. It is comprised of 7 boutiques and over 7,500 square feet of selling space, all located on Rue de la Pompe near the metro stop of the same name. The location is walking distance or a short metro ride from many of our Paris vacation rentals.

Fabulous Shoes, Boots, Sandals by Every Luxury Designer in the World

About the 16^th Arrondissement

The 16^th arrondissement is known as the BCBG, or Bon Chic Bon Genre quartier (good style, good class) and many Parisians aspire to live and shop here.  A little snob (Philippe does a great imitation of how locals pronounce Seizième)…. it’s just across the river from many of our apartment rentals in the 7^th arrondissement.  The rows of Haussmanian buildings are indeed beautiful, although the rows of buildings somewhat confining.

This very French quarter offers some of the best restaurants, food stores and boutiques in Paris and if you spend time in Paris, it’s a must to explore. Cross the river behind the Trocadero, visit the Museum of Mankind and the café and enjoy magnificent views over the Seine, the Eiffel Tower and Ecole Militaire. Or immerse yourself in a Parisian’s Paris behind the Trocadero where you can sit at one of four chic café’s to meet friends and watch the world go by.

The 16^th is also where shrewd Parisians go to find great fashion bargains. As one Parisian told me, she starts her morning in the 8th arrondissement next door – on Ave Montaigne and Faubourg St. Honore — scoping out the latest eye stopping fashions. Then straight to the 16^th and Reciproque (or Catherine Max– more on Max later) with credit card.

The gorgeous Prada shoes below were priced at €345, to give you an example.  This is high end discount retailing!

Matching Discount Designer Shoes and Handbags

Reciproque

Mme. Nicole Morel founded the business 30 years ago and continues to oversee each and every department with great care. She knows brands, styles, best sellers and classics like no one you have ever met. As I interviewed her, she answered the phone and I overhead her saying ‘Not another mink with wrap collar! Well this is the season; tell her €1,000 and we’ll do our best.’

There is every known brand and label from France, Italy and around the world: Hermes,Chanel, Dior, Vuitton, Ferre, Armani, Celine, Lacroix, Dolce, Gaultier, Sander, Choo, Blanik, Pradi, Rolex, Baccarat, Westwood, Balenciaga, Chaumet, Comme des Garcons, Escada, Fendi, Ferragamo and more.

Paris Discount Shopping: Evening Gown Bargains

Discounts: Mme. Morel explained that discounts range between 20% to 80% depending on the item, brand and demand. For example a Kelly handbag is in such high demand that there is a very small discount, but you don’t have to wait six months at Hermes. A more common item might be 60% off. Hermes scarves are € 195 vs almost € 300 at the Herme’s Store on rue Faubourg St. Honore’. If that first label item is a little beyond reach, check at Reciproque. You can compare prices easily, because the 16^th is next to the 8^th arrondissement where the flagship stores are located: Ave. Montaigne, Champs Elysees and Faubourg St. Honore.

The recession has taken its toll and since this store has traditionally been for Parisians, business has slowed.  The assortments are at their best and you can sometimes bargain slightly for a high ticket item. I love the fact that their basic website is offered in only 3 languages: French, English…and Russian.

The Beige Evening Gowns Took Up an Entire Rack

Reciproque Stores:
Open Tuesday to Friday: 11 am to 7 pm.  Saturdays 10:30 to 7 pm

No. 89 rue de la Pompe: Jewelry, Crystal, Silver and Art: This store sells everything from classic Cartier rings to Hermes watches, to antique French silver, to signed paintings by known artist, to Baracat crystal from the 1930’s. It’s small but packed with inventory.

Hermes Watches with Original Boxes in the Jewelry Store

No. 92 rue de la Pompe: Men’s: The Men’s Store sells every top brand of clothing and accessory for men: Never worn to hardly worn suits, jeans, sweaters, jackets, shirts, polo shirts, coats shoes…. to Louis Vuitton luggage. On two floors, the racks are jammed with fine clothing.

Men's Discount Store; 2 Floors, Jam-Packed Including Designer Luggage

No. 93 rue de la Pompe: Women’s Evening and Cocktail: This was my favorite boutique and wonderfully overwhelming. Fabulous evening gowns, cocktail dresses, shoes, wedding accessories and more. I loved the shoes and gowns, wondering what the occasion and story was behind the most fabulous or unusual. The next time I’m invited to a Coronation Ball, here is where I’ll shop.

Dior Evening Shoes...Fabulous Design!

No. 95 rue de la Pompe: Women’s Boutique: My mother in law used to tell me about this store, where I could find classic Chanel suits by the dozen. Why didn’t I follow her advice years ago? One wall displays nothing but Chanel jackets. I have learned a lot about French fashion taste over the past few decades; having one or two great suits that are timeless is the key. All clothing must be in good condition and if you need a fab suit, great pair of slacks, jeans, sweaters, tops you’ll find them here.

These Dior shoes with the fabulous heel were marked at €299

Dior Evening Shoes Discount price Euros 299

Hats of every size, color and design!

No. 97 rue de la Pompe: Consignment Depot: This is where everyone from genteel nobility who could use a little cash, to efficient fashionistas make their appointment to evaluate and drop off their fashion items. Clothes and all items must be high fashion designer labels, in excellent condition and in demand.  If you’re lucky, they will take them on.  Average selling cycle is 3 months to one year.

No. 101 rue de la Pompe: Hand bags, Costume Jewelry, Coats, Jackets: When I was there, the store was filled with Japanese and Chinese buyers.

Dresses for every taste and occasion at discount prices

Row Upon Row of Paris Shoppping Bargains

· Scarves: Hundreds of Hermes scarves in perfect condition, plus other great brands such as Ferragamo.  Discounts are about 30 to 35% from new at the Hermes store on Fauboug St. Honore. My favorites are the classic designs that are no longer made.

Hermes Scarves: the Best Designs 30% Off

· Handbags and Purses: Racks and shelves are divided by brand, from Bottega Veneta, to Vuitton to….

Vuitton, Chanel and Hermes Handbags at Big Discounts

Thousands of designer shoes and boots!

· Bathing suits: yes, even bikinis and monokinis have a season for the fashionistas of Paris. Find only the best brands including Eres, the most sought after bathing suits in Paris.

More Discount Purses: Longchamps, Rykiel, Chloe and more.

· Coats and raincoats: Racks are jam packed; here is where to look for your next Burberry.

Happy Discount Shopping in Paris!

Baccarat and Lalique Crystal: Paris Discount Shopping

Bargains at Paris Perfect Apartment Rentals:
Take advantage of low air fares and our low, low season prices for January, February and early March!  Apartment prices start at €800 per week for a beautiful studio for two people, €1,365 per week ( only € 195/night) for a romantic one bedroom Paris Rental that sleeps four people, to €1,700 per week for two bedrooms that sleep up to six people at www.ParisPerfect.com! You can’t beat the most beautiful apartments in Paris and the super prices.

Herme's Buche: Pistachio and Strawberry Flavor

I drool over the beautiful Buches de Noel by Pierre Herme. Here is a sampling of this year’s lineup and an easy to make recipe below.

Chuao chocolate Buche with cherry accents

Herme's Buche with chocolate and caramel

The Ispahan Buche with strawberry and lychee

Each creation looks more delicious than the one before. They are cake creations of his famous macarons, Ispahan, Chuao chocolate, Montebello…

I’m going to make the following easy recipe for Christmas, substituting vanilla ice cream for the filling…..

Recipe for Bûches de Noël (Courtesy of Epicurious.com)
Filling
• 2/3 cup whole milk
• 2 large egg yolks
• 2 TBSP sugar
• 3 TBSP all purpose flour
• 1/2 cup marzipan, cut into 1/4-inch pieces
• 6 TBSP unsalted butter, cut into 6 pieces, room temperature
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 1/4 tsp almond extract

Cake
• 6 large eggs
• 3/4 cup sugar
• 1 tsp vanilla extract
• 1/4 tsp salt
• 3/4 cup all purpose flour
• 2 TBSP unsalted butter, melted
• 2 TBSP powdered sugar
Frosting
• 3/4 cup whipping cream
• 3 TBSP unsalted butter
• 5 ounces bittersweet (not unsweetened) or semisweet chocolate, chopped
• 4 ounces milk chocolate, chopped
For filling:
Boil milk in saucepan over medium heat. Whisk yolks and sugar in small bowl until well blended; whisk in flour. Whisk hot milk into egg mixture. Return to same saucepan. Whisk over medium heat until custard thickens and boils, about 1 1/2 minutes. Transfer to processor; cool to room temperature, about 1 hour. Add marzipan; process until smooth, about 1 minute. Blend in butter 1 piece at a time, then both extracts. Cover and refrigerate filling at least 4 hours or up to 2 days.
For cake:
Preheat oven to 350°F.
Butter 11×10x1-inch jelly roll pan. I use a loaf pan. If you have a silicon loaf pan, you don’t need to use parchment paper. Line the bottom with parchment paper; butter and flour parchment.
Whisk eggs, 3/4 cup sugar, vanilla, salt in large metal bowl. Set bowl over pan of simmering water. Whisk until just warm, about 2 minutes. Remove bowl. With an electric mixer, beat until tripled in volume, about 5 to 7 minutes.
Sift flour over and fold in until gently. Carefully fold in butter (do not overmix, or batter will deflate). Spread batter in prepared pan. Bake about 20 minutes, until tester inserted into center comes out clean. Sift powdered sugar over towel. Run knife around edge of pan to loosen cake. Turn hot cake out onto towel. Peel off parchment. Starting at 1 long side and using towel as aid, gently roll up cake jelly-roll style. Cool.
Unroll cake. Spread filling and re roll it. Put cake seam side down on platter. Refrigerate cake while preparing frosting.
Alternatively, unroll cake, cut ice cream into big pieces along the cake, about ½” thick.. Slowly roll up the cake and put in freezer. (Wait a few hours and serve with soft with hot fudge sauce.)
For frosting:
Bring cream and butter to boil in medium saucepan over medium-high heat, stirring to melt butter. Remove from heat. Add both chocolates; whisk until melted. Transfer to medium bowl. Let cool at room temperature until thick enough to spread, about 1 hour.
Starting 1 inch in from each end of cake, cut on diagonal to remove one 3-inch-long piece of cake from each end. Attach 1 cake piece at sides of cake near each end. Spread frosting over top and sides of cake and pieces. Using tines of fork, draw concentric circles on cake ends to resemble tree rings. Draw fork along length of cake to form bark design. Garnish with Marzipan Mushrooms.
p.s. Thank you to epicurious.com for the easy to follow recipe. I had to laugh when I checked Martha Stewart’s recipe. 4 separate links for each part and an ‘overview from 30,000 feet’ when it got to the assebly:
Martha Stewart’s Bûches de Noël
• Chocolate Genoise
• Chocolate Mousse
• Chocolate Ganache Icing
• Meringue Mushrooms
Directions
• Make chocolate genoise and mousse, ganache icing, and meringue mushrooms. (Thank you for that!)
• To assemble cake, carefully unroll genoise on the back side of a baking sheet (discard the plastic wrap and waxed paper, but keep the towel). Spread chocolate mousse evenly on cake to within 1 to 2 inches of one long end. Reroll cake, starting from other long end, using towel to help roll it. Cover with plastic wrap; chill until firm, about 1 hour.

 Turkey and Vegetable Pie  Mini Casseroles

Turkey Pot Pie, French Version

Michelin-starred chef Christian Constant has revived the use of Cocottes, or small iron casseroles dishes at his new and aptly named restaurant, ’Les Cocottes’.  The recipes are original and delicious, from cold layered starters to hearty winter main courses, to apple crumble a’ la cocotte for dessert. French President Nicolas  Sarkozy ate there last summer and gave it a big thumb’s up.

Here’s an easy, tasty recipe using cocottes for leftover turkey. It’s basically a  French ‘Turkey Pot Pie’.  Of course you may use a regular casserole instead and substitute chicken for turkey…

Mini Tourtes de Poulet our Dindes Aux Petits Legumes
(Turkey or Chicken Pastry Pies)

Four Cocottes or mini-casseroles

Heat oven to 385 F (180 C)

Leftover turkey meat, approximately 1.5 to 2 pounds

195 g butter

1 tsp salt, 1 tsp pepper

4 carrots

20 g miniature onions (or 1 medium onion cut into 2cm pieces)

1 litre of chicken stock

50 grams flour

20 grams half-and-half cream

200 grams baby peas (or use 200 grams of asparagus cut into small slices instead)

1 t. fresh chopped parsley 

1 sheet of puff pastry

2 egg whites, beaten with a spot of milk

Uncooked Turkey: place turkey/chicken on baking sheet, cover with wax paper, salt and pepper, spread with 20 grams of soft butter. Bake for 20 minutes and remove. Then cut into cubes.

Leftover cooked  turkey: simply cut into cubes.

Peel carrots and dice

Peel little onions (or peel and dice large onion into small squares)

Bring chicken stock to boil (or make your own stock with the turkey carcass)

In a big casserole, melt rest of butter (175g)

Sauté the onions until transparent

Add flour and cook 2 minutes, stirring all the time

Pour the stock over mixture

Let it sit on soft fire a minute or two, until it starts to thicken and loses flour smell

Add liquid cream, salt, pepper, turkey pieces, carrots, peas.  Mix well.

Divide the turkey mixture into 4 little cocottes, small casseroles or bowls.

Cut 4 circles of puff pastry a little larger than the pots

Baste the outside borders of each cocotte with egg yolk (so pastry sticks to it)

Place a circle of puff pastry on the top of each cocottes, pressing against the sides.

With a brush, baste the top of each puff pastry with egg yolk

Make a design with a knife such as a spiral.

Bake in oven for about 40 minutes and serve warm.

Enjoy your leftover Thanksgiving turkey!

Here’s an easy, tasty recipe using cocottes for leftover turkey. It’s basically a  French ‘Turkey Pot Pie’.  Of course you may use a regular casserole instead and substitute chicken for turkey…

I’ve translated a lighter version into English for your enjoyment.

You can practice your French by scrolling to the bottom!

La Cigale et la Fourmi: The Grasshopper and the Ant

American Version: The Ant and the Grasshopper

Ant works all summer during a heatwave

Builds a house and sets in provisions for winter.

Grasshopper thinks the ant is stupid, laughs, dances and plays.

Winter comes, ant is cold and well fed.

Grasshopper shivers with cold, doesn’t have any food or place to live, and dies in the cold.

The End

Version Francaise: La Cigale et la Gourmi

La Cigale et La Fourmi: French Version

Ant works all summer during a heatwave

Builds a house and sets in provisions for winter.

Grasshopper thinks the ant is stupid, laughs, dances and plays.

Winter comes, the ant is cold and well fed.

Grasshopper shivers with cold, organizes a press conference and demands to know why the ant has the right to be warm and well-fed while others who are less fortunate are cold and hungry.

French TV does prime time broadcasts showing grasshopper shivering with cold.  Switch to videos of ant, warm at home, dining table laden with food.

The French are shocked that in a country so rich, one lets the poor grasshopper suffer while others live in abundance.

Demonstrations take place outside the ant’s house.

Headlines in French papers: Why did ant become rich on the back of the grasshopper?  Demands that the government  to raise taxes so ants pays his “fair share”.

Communist Trade Union and the Revolutionary Communist League organize sit ins outside the ant’s home.

France raises taxes; passes a law on economic anti-discrimination and equality, retroactive to last summer.

Ant fined because he didn’t employ the grasshopper as an assistant.

Ant can’t pay fine and higher taxes; house repossessed

Ant moves to Switzerland where he goes to work, pays taxes, contributes to the economy

French TV does a story on the grasshopper, now fat

House deteriorates and the French government is criticized for not maintaining it.

Grasshopper dies of an overdose.

Cockroaches take over, start dealing drugs from the house and terrorize the insect community.

FIN

Interesting insights by French ants on what socialism has done for France.

Version USA

La fourmi travaille dur tout l’été dans la canicule

Elle construit sa maison et prépare ses provisions pour l’hiver.

La cigale pense que la fourmi est stupide, elle rit, danse et joue

Une fois l’hiver venu, la fourmi est au chaud et bien nourrie.

La cigale grelottante de froid n’a ni nourriture ni abri, et meurt de

froid.

FIN

Version Francaise

La fourmi travaille dur tout l’été dans la canicule.

Elle construit sa maison et prépare ses provisions pour l’hiver.

La cigale pense que la fourmi est stupide, elle rit, danse et joue tout

l’été.

Une fois l’hiver venu, la fourmi est au chaud et bien nourrie.

La cigale grelottante de froid organise une conférence de presse et

demande pourquoi la fourmi a le droit d’être au chaud et bien nourrie tandis que

les autres, moins chanceux comme elle, ont froid et faim.

La télévision organise des émissions en direct qui montrent la cigale

grelottante de froid et qui passent des extraits vidéo de la fourmi

bien au chaud dans sa maison confortable avec une table pleine de provisions.

Les Français sont frappés que, dans un pays si riche, on laisse souffrir

cette pauvre cigale tandis que d’autres vivent dans l’abondance.

Les journalistes organisent des interviews, demandant pourquoi la

fourmi est devenue riche sur le dos de la cigale et interpellent le gouvernement

pour augmenter les impôts de la fourmi afin qu’elle paie ’sa juste part’.

La CGT, Le Parti Communiste, la Ligue Communiste Révolutionnaire, organisent seat-ins et manifestations devant la maison de la fourmi.

Les fonctionnaires décident de faire une grève de solidarité de 59

minutes par jour pour une durée illimitée.

En réponse aux sondages, le gouvernement rédige une loi sur l’égalité

économique et une loi (rétroactive à l’été) d’anti-discrimination.

Les impôts de la fourmi sont augmentés et la fourmi reçoit aussi une

amende pour ne pas avoir embauché la cigale comme aide.

La maison de la fourmi est préemptée par les autorités car la fourmi

n’a pas assez d’argent pour payer son amende et ses impôts.

La fourmi quitte la France pour s’installer en Suisse où elle

contribue à la richesse économique.

La télévision fait un reportage sur la cigale maintenant engraissée.

Elle est en train de finir les dernières provisions de la fourmi bien

que le printemps soit encore loin.

Des rassemblements d’artistes et d’écrivains de gauche, se tiennent

régulièrement dans la maison de la fourmi.

Le chanteur Renaud compose la chanson ‘Fourmi, barre-toi!’…

L’ancienne maison de la fourmi, devenue logement social pour la

cigale, se détériore ar cette dernière n’a rien fait pour l’entretenir.

Des reproches sont faits au gouvernement pour le manque de moyens.

Une commission d’enquête est mise en place, ce qui coûtera 10 millions

d’euros.

La cigale meurt d’une overdose.

La maison est squattée par un gang de cafards qui organisent un trafic de marijuana et terrorisent la communauté…

FIN

]]> http://www.parisperfect.com/blog/2009/10/ant-and-the-grasshopper-american-vs-french/feed/ http://www.parisperfect.com/blog/2009/10/making-the-best-macarons-in-the-world/ http://www.parisperfect.com/blog/2009/10/making-the-best-macarons-in-the-world/#comments Sat, 10 Oct 2009 15:50:06 +0000 madelyn http://www.parisperfect.com/blog/?p=481

The best macarons in the world; Pierre Herme Paris

My daughter Alexia (age 14) and I have fallen in love with macarons, especially the ones made by Pierre Herme’ in Paris.  We purchased his Macaron cookbook and have spent many hours in the kitchen trying to perfect his delicious concoctions.

Pierre Herme's Macaron Cookbook: Gorgeous photograhy; difficult recipes!

Making Macarons by Pierre Herme

They say that macarons are the most difficult pastry in the world to make, so I prepared for the challenge as my father did on pre-flight checks for F-104’s and husband Philippe before a heart transplant.   I was going to do it right! Studied Herme’s book carefully, from listing the recommended utensils to visiting his sources in Paris for the best chocolate and ingredients.

We carefully calculated ingredients, equivalents and translated instructions for making Pierre Herme's Mogador Macarons. Diagrams, flowcharts and calculators required

We carefully calculated ingredients, equivalents and translated instructions for making Pierre Herme’s Macarons

We bought our first digital thermometer, a digital scale and a new sieve.  Wow, love digital thermometers and digital scales!  Where have they been all my life?  If I never bake another macaron they are fantastic basics for a kitchen.
I visited the main store he recommended for ingredients:  La Grande Epicerie de Paris in Paris’ 7^th arrondissement. The list included:

1.) Special butter, beurre de la Viette 2.) 3 types chocolate : Cacao pate, Chocolate Jivara Valrhona with 40% cocoa, Chcolat Araguani and 3.) Almond powder

Chocolate and Butter Crises Almost Halt Macaron-Making

La Grande Epicerie de Paris: followed suggestion to buy chocolate, butter and almond powder at this beautiful food store in the 7th

I struck out on almost every front.

La Grande E doesn’t sell beurre de la Viette and no one in the store had heard of it. Panic. I called my mother-in-law at their home in Normandy. Normandy is the Wisconsin of France.  Check any milk carton in France; you’ll find contented cows grazing on Normandy grass.  ‘Quoi? Je n’ai jamais entendu parle’ de beurre de la Viette. C’est une beurre sale’ ou non sale’?  Est ce que c’est une beurre de la Bretagne?? ‘  (”What? I’ve never heard of beurre de la Viette.  Is it a salted or unsalted butter? Or is it a butter that comes from…horror of horrors… Brittany??”‘)

M. Herme’, I admit my ignorance about fine pastry- making, but when a person from Normandy who has cooked for 92 years has not heard of Beurre de la Viette, you need to come down a level.  How about a a hypermarche’-equivalent?

Butter crisis almost halts macaron-making. What to substitute for Beurre de la Viette?? Le President, Lurpak or Beurre au Sel de Guerande?

I  checked our  emergency butter stocks at home and fretted.  No, not the Beurre au sel de guerande, our secret ingredient for chocolate chip cookies. Not the Flora for my pseudo diets.  I settled on the European Walmarts of butters, Lurpak from Denmark and Le President from France.  My inlaws scoff at Le President camembert and butter, but what else could I do? M. Herme’ may throw me out of his shop if he hears of this sacrilege.

Yes La Grande E sold almond powder, but it was expensive, an ordinary brand sold everywhere in France and… processed in Germany! Please.  I can find equally good almond powder in the French supermarkets or at Sainsbury’s in London for a third less. My apologies to British readers, but if Sainsbury’s sells good almond powder, it isn’t exclusive.

Chocolate: La Grande E didn’t carry any 40% milk chocolate by Valhrona or anyone else for that matter. No Jivara, no Araguani. Found 30% milk chocolate, 32%, but if Pierre wants it to be 40% milk chocolate I was out of luck.

On the other hand, I bought some delicious fresh pasta and sauce for dinner – La GE is a treasure trove for gourmet meals and nibblies — and headed home.

Major chocolate dilemma for macaron filling until I discovered Green and Black's Organic Chocolate in London. Lindt from Switzerland for the 70% dark chocolate, a mainstay in our kitchen.

Returned to London with almond powder, but no chocolate and no butter. Disaster loomed. I know chocolate, from swiping  icing off my mom’s chocolate cakes from age 8, to buying tons of chocolate bars in my former life as a banker on trips to  Switzerland, Belgium and France.  Good chocolate will make a recipe. Bad chocolate will ruin it.

England didn’t make the chocolate grade and I fretted. Cadbury’s – horrible! Too much sugar and tastes like wax. Mars Bars? the same! No wonder Austin Powers makes fun of the English and their teeth.  You can’t find a dentist on National Health, but eating chocolate comprised of 10% cocoa and 90% sugar doesn’t help.

I was in luck: stopped at the local Waitrose and found a wide selection of quality brands. To my surprise, I discovered an English brand, Green and Black’s Organic chocolate and it was excellent! OK, only 34% but that was close enough. Melt in a little 70% and  we’re in business.

Saturday morning and our macaron-making began!  It seemed almost too easy, but that was just the beginning.

Saturday Morning: things started well for our macaron escapade

First discovery, Herme’s recipes are complicated!  As 14 year old Alexia commented, ‘I think he makes these hard so you’ll go to his store and buy them.’  Too right.  We began to mark up the book and take notes on post-its to clarify the process.  A venn diagram was called for.

To execute Herme's macarons, a military operation and surgical precision were called for. Flow charts, HP calculators and Venn diagrams. If Herme' wrote the book so we'd give up and buy his delicious macarons instead, then we were going to prove him wrong!

We had prepared the ingredients and utensils carefully but missed the part where he told us to separate and store the egg whties for a full week in the refrigerator.  He feels it’s one of the secrets of great macarons.  How much could that matter?  After all, the whites were resting calmly in their eggshells all week anyway.  We continued merrily on.

The pressure started to rise. Alexia accused me of getting too stressed out, but in my defense the instructions went like this:

Herme’ divides macaron-making into three separate parts, but combines ingredients and instructions into a single paragraph.  And two important parts require the exact same quantities of the exact same ingredient: 2 x 110 grams of egg whites.

Why not:  110 grams for one and 111 grams for the other? How much could one gram hurt? Mais non!  Or Blancs  d’oeufs A and blancs d’oeufs  B?   The instructions are unclear even if you speak fluent French.  I know, I’ve shown it to my  French ‘copines’ or pals who shake their heads in confusion.

Oh and M. Herme’, my French friends didn’t know what ‘pate de chocolat’ means either.  Isabelle thought it was like Nutella but without the hazelnuts.  Anne thought it was like chocolate chips.  I never did find out, but was relieved  I wasn’t alone.

Sugar water for macarons at 109 degrees centigrade and stress level rising

Try this:

“Boil the water and sugar to exactly 118 degrees Centigrade.  As soon as it reaches 115 degrees Centigrade, simultaneously start to whip at a mid speed until it reaches a snowy mixture … the egg whites that are liquified.”

What??  What has to be whipped at medium speed to a snowy mixture?? Oh, the egg whites! Who writes a sentence where the subject appears at the end so you don’t know what you’re supposed to whip at medium speed — assuming it’s still the sugar water — until you’ve stuck the beaters in the wrong bowl??

And which egg whites, the 110 grams in the middle of your list of ingredients or the other 110 grams that appear later in the same paragraph??

Wait, that second 110 grams of egg whites was to be mixed with the food coloring and poured onto the sugar/almond mixture. It was the first batch of 110 grams! Oh no, the sugar water temperature has risen to 135 degrees, what do we do now???

We both became a little stressed by the confusing directions!

The French instructions continue, one process running into the other. “…snowy mixture… the egg whites that are liquified.  Pour the the cooked sugar at 118 degrees Centigrade onto the whites. Whip and let cool to 50 degrees centigrade before incorporating into the preparation of sugar/icing/almond, and make sure it falls as a paste.”

To be fair, there are ten pages of instructions with excellent, detailed photos of the 32 step macaron-making  process at the beginning of his book.  But it’s impossible to flip back and forth while you’re sugar water rises above 118 degrees Centigrade!

We cheated a little on the chocolate since Green and Blacks wasn't quite 40%. Added some 70% Valhrona.

Yes, I panicked! Just like the program ”I Want to Become a Millionaire’ I used the friend card to call a copine for help.  Question: Exactly what is the consistency of snowy egg whites and how can you tell when a heavy, somewhat lumpy Pâte has started to glisten? She was a little surprised by my call, especially because she was boarding a flight to Nice. She’s a great cook but had never attempted macarons. “Sorry, I always buy them at Ladurée in Paris”.

We did our best as we whipped, stirred and folded towards completion.  I didn’t follow his tip to create a macaron template from a shot glass for the perfect size.

Squeezing macaron paste onto cookie sheets

We arrived at the batter which some recipes say will look like magma. I could only guess. Half was colored pink for Macarons Framboise and the other half pale yellow for the famous Mogador Macarons.

Magma-like macaron batter? Somehow I don't think this is what my friend Pierre had in mind

We banged the trays on the counter per his instructions to release air and waited half an hour.  Into the oven … so exhausted we forgot to follow his careful instructions:  “Let cook 12 minutes opening the door twice to make the vapor exit.  The first time after 8 minutes of cooking and a second time after 10 minutes.”  But they looked beautiful!  Until we discovered that the  macarons cooked onto the parchment.  Tip: use teflon or silicon sheets and wait til the macarons cool.

Our first batches of macarons

Here they are coming out of the oven!

Our first batch of macarons!

A delicate process trying to remove the macarons from the parchment paper they were baked onto.  But nothing would deter us now!

Tip: don't bake macarons on parchment paper

Onto the best part, the ganache filling:

The first ganache or filling we tried remains our favorite: Mogador. It’s passion fruit and milk chocolate (34% milk chocolate and a few squares of 70% melted in.  Sorry Pierre, 40% n’existait pas).

Making the ganache was a piece of gateau compared to the macarons, but my friend M. Herme’ missed the mark on quantities. He said to buy 12 passion fruits, but it required 24. Two trips to Sainsbury’s and we were back in business. Nightmare to press each one, then rub the seeds and juice against a strainer with a wooden spoon.  But…so good!  We love it so much that we buy dozens, squeeze out the juice and freeze for our next batch.

I made corrections in the margins.  I’m going to email Herme’ and volunteer to re-write the instructions if he’ll offer a special macaron making class for me and our Paris Perfect guests. Or open a shop on rue St. Dominique.

Here is our first batch of macarons!  Not perfect but delicious all the same.

Well, the recipe book will never be the same.  I’ve considered mailing it back with the corrections and post-it notes to help M. Herme’ for the next edition.

Our finished macarons! Not quite Pierre Herme' but pretty darn close!

M. Hermé on adore vos macarons, mais comme dit Alexia, on a réalisé qu’il faut les acheter dans vos magasins!

In the meantime, I have researched macarons and found an easier recipe, to follow shortly.  Not as ‘raffine’ but done in 20 minutes!

Pierre’s macarons set the gold standard for taste, texture and originality.  But we’ll buy them in his shop whenever we can.

Sunset from the Merlot Paris Vacation Rental

And close up… I still pinch myself when I witness beauty like this!

The Observation Deck on the Eiffel Tower from the Merlot Apartment

Views from Merlot at sunset

Later that evening, I looked out the second bedroom window.  And here was the courtyard view at the same time of night.  I contrasted it with the amazing spectacle I enjoyed earlier.  There was simply no comparison.

Paris courtyard view; inner views on 'calm' courtyards don't compare.

To me, Paris is a gift and should be savored every moment of the day.   Even your down time should be spent where you can relax or even work in a beautiful space, sip a glass of wine and enjoy a spectacle like the one above.  We hope you have the chance to watch the perfect sunset in Paris every night you are there.  We promise you will never forget it.

Pinch Yourself That You're in Paris! Trocadero Across the River

When anyone asks what kind of apartment they should buy or rent, our answer will never change:  Go for the views!  In memories alone they are worth every penny.

Woke up early on Monday at our Merlot apartment near the river in Paris.  I grabbed my camera and tore out of the apartment for a short run along the Seine.  What a gift, watching the sun rise over Paris!  I gazed in awe from the Pont Alexandre III near the Invalides. The sky turned pink and yellow while the sun slowly rose above the beautiful river, touching the water and the monuments as it rose.

I thought how lucky I was to have this morning: to be in Paris, stay in an apartment near the Seine, to walk to the river a few blcoks away:  the light, the beauty and magic…for these special moments. C’etait magnifique!

Vowed to learn more about the bridge and the bronze statues which range from powerful god-figures to an absolutely charming nymph straddling a wriggling fish. I’m no great runner and it didn’t matter at all when I started to walk. I headed towards the Louvre and slowly wended my way home:  fifteen minutes from the Musee’ d’ Orsay to my door. I loved every moment!

Taking it all in, I was reminded of a book I read by Harlan Coben where the protagonist finds himself in Paris.  It’s a good mystery from an excellent writer.

Harlan Coben from Long Lost:

But more than that, Paris makes you feel alive.
Makes makes you want to feel alive.
You want to do and be and savor when you are here
You want to feel, simply feel, and it doesn’t matter what.
All sensation is heightened
Paris makes you want to cry and laugh and fall in love and write a poem and make love and compose a symphony.

Merci M. Coben, on ne peut pas mieux le dire.

Commanding the sun to rise over Paris

Perfect reflections of the Grand Palais and Pont Alexandre III

Charming and playful statue of a nymph riding a fish!

Every neighborhood of Paris has its special parts, but remember this sunrise. However much I enjoy more distant neighborhoods, from the outer Marais to Montmartre, I’ll always want to live near the Seine.

Water so still buildings and trees perfectly reflected.

Use Globe and Poivrade artichokes if they are available

Refreshing Artichoke Salad by Christian Constant

Early this year, we launched cooking lessons for guests inthe Michelin starred kitchens of the Violon d’Ingres.  This excellent restaurant has become a favorite in the 7th arrondissement among Parisian locals and businessmen alike.  The lessons have also been a success, thanks to the hard work of Head chef Stefan Schmidt. He offers small group lessons for our guests most Monday mornings.

I popped in one day and was the lucky recipient of a tasting of his excellent Artichoke Salad, or Salade d’Artichauts.  The salad is light, low calorie and refreshing.  If you don’t care for artichokes, the vinaigrette alone is worth saving.

Salade d’Artichauts
Artichoke Salad

Ingredients for 4 servings

2 globe artichokes
6 violet or poivrade artichokes (Violet are versions of poivrade artichokes. This smaller variety has almost no choke and the inner half is very tender.  Taste is somewhat bitter, a little hazelnut and also delicious sliced thinly)
4 handfuls aragula
200 g (7 oz) cultivated mushrooms
100g (3 1/2 oz) shallots
1 bunch flat-leaf parsley
1 bunch chervil
1 qt. white stock* (*Powdered chicken stock may be substituted)
1 3/4 oz. olive oil

Vinaigrette:
2 tsp Dijon mustard
2 Tbsp sherry vinegar
5 oz. peanut oil
Salt and freshly ground pepper

Preparation time: 20 minutes
Cooking time: 15 minutes

Prepare the vinaigrette:  In a bowl, combine the mustard, sherry vinegar and peanut oil, season with sale and fresh ground pepper.

Rinse the globe artichokes, remove the exterior leaves and the hairy inner chokes and quarter the artichoke bottoms.  In a saucepan, saute’ the bottoms in olive oil; season with salt and pepper, add half of the stock.  Cover and cook over low heat until the liquid reduces by half; remove from the heat.

While this mixture cools, rinse the poivrade artichokes, remove the outer leaves and cut each in half lengthwise.  Saute’ them in a little olive oil, without browning, season until tender. Spoon the cooking juices over the artichokes and let cool.

Risen the aragula and spin dry. Mince the shallots. rinse and finely chop the herbs.  Rinse the mushrooms and slide thinly.

Divide the aragula among the plates and add the artichokes.  Sprinkle with the mushrooms, shallots and chopped herbs.  Spoon the vinaigrette over and serve.

Cooking lessons by Christian Constant

We did our share for the American economy by buying copious quantities of the following. As I review my list, chocolate is a recurring theme.

1.)  Hershey’s Chocolate Chips — A bargain from Costco. I boast the best recipe for tollhouse cookies using French salted butter. Will post soon.

2.)  M+M’s — No comparison with the best French and Swiss chocolate, but colorful. My daughter and I sponsor a Gingerbread House session at school before Christmas and turn out dozens.   A great fund raiser for a favorite charity.  M+M’s are perfect for roofs and pathways. We need thousands and they weigh a ton! Loved the new frosted colors and clever 100 calorie packs.

3.) Found  ‘Green and Black Organic Milk Chocolate’  (for our Pierre Herme’ Macaron recipe) for only $2.50 per bar at Target.  Quel bargain: sorry, it’s produced in the Uk but costs half the price in the U.S.   If you love milk chocolate, get to your nearest Target and stock up.

4.) Dried cranberries, blueberries and pecans.  Tarte au citron with pecan crust, yogurt with dried fruits. I’m sneeking in Oreos here, so you won’t think I’m a complete chocolate glutton…but I am. Also one bar of Ghirardelli dark chocolate with raspberry filling. Have not opened it yet. Hope it’s as good as Cote d’Or from Belgium.

5.) Thor Lo socks Love those arch supports.

6.) Our 13 year old daughter discovered Abercrombie and promises she doesn’t need anything else for school By the way, the store was packed with Italian and French families doing their share for the American economy. “Mama, ti piace? Ne compriamo due!”  “Maman, j’ai absolument besoin de ces jeans. Ils sont trop mignons!”

7.) Sunshine!  We brought it home with us and the weather has been beautiful.

8.) Five extra pounds: My sister Lisa at ItalyPerfect and I have vowed to support each other with daily messaging to exercise daily and stay away from … chocolate.

Bonne rentree’ and hope you’ve all had a great break this summer!